I get about six weeks off work every year (unpaid), so projects around the home/apartment are a great way to keep from going a little stir crazy. This time, one of the projects was to build a king size headboard from scratch.

There are more headboard styles than I ever realized and, upon settling on the elegant, yet fairly simple “Cleveland” style, it didn’t take long to realize that making angular wood cuts isn’t very conducive to the limitations a small apartment and lack of a true workspace brings. Thus, we decided to keep it simple – very simple – and left the plywood mounting board rectangular, which is the way we had Lowes cut it.


There are some shops in L.A. that specialize in foam, but the reviews on Yelp made them all seem more pricey than they need to be. As an alternative, we bought two queen size mattress toppers, which can be easily cut up and pieced together as a backing on the mounting board. The other materials – the fabric, batting, and trim nails – all came from a fabric store. Also needed were a staple gun, wood screws, and spray adhesive. The “E6000” adhesive worked only well enough to get the job done.


To start the labor, we mounted the 2×4 supports to the back of the plywood sheet. One support was attached to the left edge, one to the right edge, and one across the top to keep the plywood from bowing.

The next step was to attach the foam to the board. We found the best way was to roll up the foam and, as you slowly unroll it on the board, spray the adhesive on both the wood and the foam. As previously mentioned, the E6000 spray wasn’t so great, but the foam did stick after letting it sit for a while.

From there, the second layer of foam was cut to size, then held in place while the headboard was flipped over on top of the batting. The batting was then pulled tight and stapled to the 2x4s (and plywood at the bottom).


We then stood the headboard up to make sure there were no major wrinkles evident and that the foam was looking pretty even. Things were looking good, so the headboard was again laid face down in preparation for attaching the outer layer of fabric. We went ahead and stapled the top of the fabric to the top 2×4, following a point on the pattern across to make sure the fabric would appear straight on the visible side.


The, the headboard was again stood up in order to double-check that the fabric looked straight. It did, so we proceeded to pull the bottom of the fabric tight, which was then stapled on the back to the plywood. Once that looked good, we pulled the sides tight and stapled those, too.


What I was expecting to turn into a headache – mounting the headboard to the bed frame – turned out just fine. One mount on the bed frame appears bent, so I was wondering if I could straighten it out, if the wood legs of the headboard would need wheels, etc. It turns out, however, that the headboard is solid enough to stand against the wall, especially since the top of the bed supports the bottom of the headboard.

Headboard DIY


First and foremost, when working with any electronic gear, make sure the equipment is completely unplugged from any power source, including USB.

Tools needed:

– a thin-bladed knife (a utility knife is best, as it will likely get covered with epoxy)
– a Phillips head screwdriver
– pliers (needle-nose are preferable)

1. Take the thin-bladed knife and, at one of the front speaker housing corners, wedge it between the black, plastic, speaker housing face and the silver trim piece.

Logitech Z-10 - pic 1


2. Gently and slowly rock the knife back and forth to cut through the adhesive that’s holding the face plate to the speaker housing. Take care to keep the knife lateral to the face plate… the back of the plate has a black coating on it, making scratches transparent and very visible from the front.

Logitech Z-10 - pic 2


3. Make 4-5 passes around the speaker housing with the knife, cutting a little further into the adhesive each time.

4. Once the face plate starts to come loose, with your hands, gently go around the housing a few times, prying the face plate up a little more each time. Since it’s plastic, be sure to not bend the plate too much, as it could break.

Logitech Z-10 - pic 3


5. Once the plate is off, grab the Phillips head screwdriver and loosen the eight screws holding the housing together.

Logitech Z-10 - pic 4


6. Once the screws are loosened, slowly pull the housing apart. Be careful because the speaker wires don’t have much extra slack.

Logitech Z-10 - pic 5


7. With the needle-nose pliers, clamp and remove the speaker cable leads and the tweeter leads.

Logitech Z-10 - pic 6


With that, you should have successfully disassembled the Logitech Z-1o speakers.

Logitech Z-10 - pic 7


In this case, it turns out the problem is a blown speaker, as you can see the tear in the cone. Boooooo!!!!

Logitech Z-10 - pic 8

In what felt like a one-two punch, I recently had a Seagate 3 TB internal drive fail, then the manufacturer’s “SeaTools” diagnostic software wouldn’t boot. I used the Windows XP version of SeaTools, and the software then recommended using the DOS version. Further complicating the diagnostics, to use the software you have to burn a “disk image” of the software on a CD or floppy disk. I opted for the CD, not so surprisingly, and used “Alex Feinman’s ISO Recorder.” That Freeware is recommended on the Seagate website, if you don’t have programs like Nero, EasyCD Creator, etc., but it didn’t work for me.

Upon reading carefully through the instructions and creating the ISO disk, I rebooted the computer and it froze on a message reading “Error reading from drive A: DOS area…. Ignore (I) Retry (R) Abort (A).” Hitting “I” did nothing, so I then moved on to try all kinds of fixes to get past that. Turning off the “A” drive in the BIOS settings didn’t solve the problem, and changing the boot sequence order, -making the CD/DVD drive the priority – didn’t help either.

What DID work was using a different program to burn the disk image. I fired up my Mac, downloaded the DOS ISO image, and burned it to a new CD using the Disk Utility program. To do that, you open up Disk Utility, click “File” at the top, select “Open Disk Image,” and navigate to and open the Seagate “SeaToolsDOS223ALL.ISO” file you have downloaded.

Then, still in Disk Utility, select the ISO filename that shows up in the bar on the left side of the utility. Go up and select the “Burn” icon, and the ISO disk should soon be ready.

From there, I put that disc in the Windows computer, and it booted straight to the “SeaTools for DOS” software. The Long Test is the way to go, as it discovered a whole page’s worth of bad sectors on the drive. Based on the test results, the problems are apparently fixed, though that still needs to be independently verified.

If you have any questions about this process, feel free to let me know in the comment section below. Additionally, if you have benefited from this post, leave a little note or consider sharing this page. Thanks!

Home Brewed Beer in Clear Glass Bottles

Last night I bottled my second batch of beer, and maaaan was it a challenge. As mentioned in my previous post [(Home)Brewing Some Beer], the Mr. Beer kit is a good way to begin to learn the craft of beer making. The equipment leaves something to be desired, however, as it’s cheap. But as we’ve all heard, “you get what you pay for.” Everything is plastic, which means replacement parts are required at some point. Unfortunately, in my case, the need for a replacement part came much too soon. The spigot on the fermenting tank stopped working after brewing the very first batch, and the discovery of that came at a most inopportune time.

While prepping the second batch (American Blonde Ale), I went through the motions – sanitize all the required tools/boil water in a pot/mix in the hopped malt – and discovered that the sanitized water wouldn’t pass through the spigot on the fermenting tank. So the only option was to flip the fermenting tank over to dump out the water. I then removed the spigot from the tank to see what was up. The assembly is designed so that hitting the “push” button activates a bar inside that pulls down on a rubberized seal, allowing liquid to pass through the valve. Well, the bar had somehow become disconnected from the rubberized enclosure, so the “push” button activated nothing. Since the spigot wasn’t leaking, I had no choice but to go ahead and reassemble it so the “wort” and yeast could do their thing.

Mr. Beer’s Customer Service dept. was a big help. I let them know the equipment failed after just a single use, and they promptly sent me a replacement/redesigned spigot. It sure is nice to have, though it’s hard to remove a tap when its seal is helping keep liquid in the fermenting tank.

My wife and I schemed and debated on the best approach to get the beer out for bottling. Ultimately, I ended up turning the faulty spigot counter-clockwise until beer began pouring out. I really hope the liquid didn’t get too agitated/aerated, as it flowed down into the sanitized pitcher I put in the sink. In retrospect, the better idea probably would have been to sanitize a ladle and slowly, scoop by scoop, move the beer into the pitcher. Once enough beer poured out of the tank, I was able to reach in and install the new spigot.

Also, this could turn out to be a really stupid move, but I substituted sugar for honey in one of the bottles to see what happens. As it’s a sugar product, I know the yeast will convert it to alcohol, but I have no idea if it’s appropriate to use the same amount of honey as the recommended amount of sugar. We shall see, and hopefully nothing blows up.

One thing I was concerned about was that all the swing top bottles I have are clear. Dark brown and green bottles are used to keep out sunlight, which can break down the hops in the bottled beer. Sometimes that’s used for effect, as it adds flavor to brews like Corona. So it seems to be that you can use whatever bottles you want – colored or not – but be sure to store the clear ones in a dark cabinet to avoid introducing a skunky flavor.

Also, to further develop my beer making skills, I bought a hydrometer. Honestly, I still don’t know exactly what the “specific gravity” readings tell you, but I do know that you can calculate the beer’s percentage of alcohol (ABV) with the device. The tool also indicates if fermenting is underway or if it’s complete. But how to determine those from the hydrometer, I have no idea, as the one purchased through Mr. Beer came with no instructions at all. You’re pretty much on your own figuring the thing out, but I guess they must figure you know how to operate such a device if you’re buying one. But I don’t, and I have some research to do.

So my second batch ever is now in storage for the next couple weeks. Hopefully it will be a hit at Thanksgiving… but I think I’m going to have to try a bottle beforehand so I don’t potentially offend my guests!

When it comes to conducting an interview, planning ahead is very important. I recently witnessed one where, at least a few times, the interviewer looked off into space and asked “Hmmm… now what else can I ask you?” The lack of preparedness took up a lot of precious time for all parties involved, so the following will outline types of interviews and how you can effectively structure them.


Funnel vs. Inverted Funnel

First of all, when it comes to time constraints, there are two types of interviews – the funnel and the inverted funnel. If you imagine putting oil in your car, the funnel is wide on top with a small opening at the bottom. In interview form, the “funnel” means asking broad, general questions first, then leading in to more specific, tougher questions. The “inverted funnel” is just the opposite – asking the tough questions first, followed by broad questions.

Of course, the small end of the funnel doesn’t exactly have to consist of “tough” questions. Rather, it’s the meat and bones of your interview… it’s the reason you’re conducting an interview to begin with. Whether you ask the important questions at the beginning or the end of the interview is based on how much time you have. If you only have a few minutes, use the inverted funnel approach. If you have all day, structure your interview as a funnel.


Closed vs. Open-ended Questions

Once you’ve nailed down your timetable, the next step is to formulate your questions. An interview can branch off in many directions, but it’s best to have basic questions to refer to in case it doesn’t… or to get your interview back on track. In general, you want to avoid asking closed questions, which are those that can elicit a simple “yes” or “no” answer. Open-ended questions, on the other hand, are employed as a way to try to get the interviewee talking. To get an open-ended answer, formulate your questions to begin with the 5 Ws (who, what, when, where, why + how). Unless you’re seeking information to rewrite later (for something like a newspaper article or blog), avoid starting questions with “did.” Rather than asking “Did it feel great to finish the race?” ask “How great did it feel to finish the race?”


The Interview

Make the interviewee feel comfortable beforehand, if possible. Offer him or her some tea or water. Build some rapport so the person isn’t over-thinking what questions you might ask. If applicable, before the official interview, chat it up with small talk (but steer clear of your interview questions) by asking “How was your flight?” “Where are you from?” “How is your day?”

When it’s time for the interview, ask the interviewee his or her name and to spell it out. Professionally, there is little worse than trying to cite someone but spelling the name wrong. It’s important to note that, in the journalism field, a misspelled name can have legal repercussions.

If an interviewee doesn’t fully answer your question, it may be for a multitude of reasons, including he/she a) might not understand the question, b) doesn’t want to, c) may ramble and forget the question, and d) can’t due to lack of knowledge on the subject.

If the interview is a tough one and the source is hostile, do your best to avoid arguing. Otherwise, the interviewee might shut down, effectively ending the interview. Try getting a hostile interviewee to open up by a) revisiting/rewording a question that was previously unanswered, b) saving the tough question(s) for the end of the interview, c) offering the interviewee a chance for a rebuttal to something damaging someone said about him or her (relevant to the interview, of course), and d) providing sympathy/understanding that the answer might be difficult.



The following sample questions are from a reality show pilot episode I worked on a few years back. It centered around a modeling agency and the models that work for it, so these Qs should at least give you a good idea of some open-ended interview questions.

1) Please introduce yourself to the camera.
2) Please spell out your name.
3) What is your occupation?
4) Describe your first photo shoot.
5) How does it feel when you see your photos after a shoot?
6) How do you get your week started?
7) What would you say is your favorite thing about modeling?
8) How do people react when they find out you are a model?
9) What goes through your mind during a photo shoot?
10) What are your future goals in the business?
11) What were you doing before you started modeling?
12) What do Mom and Dad think of what you do?
13) Is there any question I should have asked you / is there anything you were expecting me to ask?


Good luck on your interview endeavors, and drop me a line below if you have any comments or other questions about the interview process.

Also, if you feel you have benefited from this post, please consider leaving a shout-out or sharing this page via one of the links below.

If you are new(ish) to WordPress, it doesn’t take long to figure out that your pages are super-customizable, to such a degree that the options can become dizzying. Many of the tutorial pages about turning categories and/or tags into individual pages are just so convoluted and really filled with too much information. Since most of my posts fit into one of six categories (Music, Tech., Travel, etc.), I wanted to turn those categories into individual pages and have links to those category pages show up on every page on my site. It ended up being a really simple process, and this is what I did:

Step 1 – In your WordPress Dashboard, navigate down to “Appearance” – “Menus” as shown.

Step 2 – Give your Menu a title. It can be anything, and the title name won’t show up anywhere on your published pages. Click “Create Menu.”

Step 3 – Scroll down the page and select what categories, pages, and/or tags you want to turn into individual pages. Click “Add to Menu” for each section. If any sections are missing, click on “Screen Options” at the top right of the page and check any box that’s missing (options to display are “Theme Locations,” “Custom Links,” “Posts,” “Pages,” “Categories,” and “Tags.”)

Step 4 – You can rearrange the order your links will display on your pages by simply dragging and dropping them into the order you want. Also, you can create sub-links by dragging one of the gray page link boxes over slightly to the right. For example, if I wanted to make the link to my “Music” page appear in a dropdown menu when highlighting the “About” page, this is how it’s done.

Step 5 – Click “Save Menu” when done arranging and apply it to your site by selecting the menu you just saved in the “Theme Locations” box (where to select the theme is shown in the photo above; the final product is shown below.)

Feel free to leave some feedback if have any tips to add, need any clarification, if this post has helped, or if you want to just say “hello!”

To keep a short story short, we recently decided our big, round dining table was taking up too much space. As a replacement, we agreed to sacrifice the beauty of our coffee table in hopes that it would become something greater (you should have seen it before it was sanded and stained… ugh!).

The coffee table originally had a glass top, but that got left behind during our cross-country move. There is a raised edge around the whole table top, so we wanted to add a little something to make the entire tabletop flush. Tile seemed like the best option.


Coverting a Coffee Table to a Dining Room Table


Rather than the old days of pilfering through a collection of tiles and mixing and matching (I guess that’s what they did back then), tiles are attached to a mesh backing, with enough space between them for grout. If the tile sheets are too big, you can just cut the mesh and eliminate however many rows of tiles you need. They just make it so easy.


Coverting a Coffee Table to a Dining Room Table


Another thing that makes this process easy is double-sided, adhesive sheets. The idea is like double-sided tape, but bigger and more heavy duty. In this case, we slapped some of those sheets down on the table surface, laid the tile down on top of that, applied the grout, and voila! There was more time and thought that ultimately went into the whole process than I am probably making it seem, yet it was simpler than originally expected.

Luckily, in this case, the glass tiles didn’t have to be cut. We had to snip some tile rows off by cutting the mesh, but the spacing ended up being nearly perfect. The fit was getting a little snug while putting down the final two tile sheets, so the alignment of the rows is a little off. It still looks nice, though, and gained a ton of character when compared to the lovely but simply stained look the table previously had.


Coverting a Coffee Table to a Dining Room Table


Next on the agenda is finding a chair set. We don’t mind getting down and dirty and doing a little sanding and staining if we have to. They just have to take up a fairly small amount of real estate. And hopefully we find the right chairs soon, because the size of the chairs will ultimately determine the height of the table.

This past weekend, I was biking around L.A. and made a random stop at a thrift store. I happened to find a set of four stools that seemed to work for the table. Being on bike, it would have, of course, been impossible to get them home. Heading back a while later, what do you know? Someone didn’t buy all of the them… someone bought TWO of them! BLASTED! It was a maddening, yet really funny experience.

So once we get the chairs, for the table, it should just be a matter of cutting the legs to height, staining them, and attaching them to the table. It like we are so close but yet so far…… and the search continues.


UPDATE (9/9/12):

I found a chair set on Craigslist that works well with the tables. I wasn’t completely sold on the look of the chair backs, but it was a compromise since my wife didn’t like the saddle chairs I was after. Regardless, the color scheme of the chairs we ended up with go great with the table, and the seat padding is a nice microfiber one.


Coffee Table to Dining Room Table Conversion

The legs that are being replaced…

If you are new to woodworking projects, this part is really important:

The width of the coffee table legs were 2″ x 2″, but 1.5″ x 1.5″ wood looked fine at the hardware store, so we brought the lumber home, cut it up, sanded it down, and stained it, only to find that it didn’t look right. Here are the two things we learned from this – 1) If you’re making a table taller, make sure the new legs are at least the same width as the original ones. Otherwise, your table is probably going to end up looking cheap and might be wobbly. 2) If you need 2″ x 2″ wood, you can’t just saw a 2×4 in half because 2x4s aren’t actually 2″ x 4″!!! Rather, they’re in the neighborhood of 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″. Strange, I know, and I can’t tell you why…. but it’s true.

We visited three hardware stores, and finally discovered (thanks to the helpful folks at Anawalt Lumber in Hollywood) that we could have them saw a 4×4 board (which is actually 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″) down the 2″ square that we really needed.


UPDATE (11/7/12):

So, with the new legs, we’ve finally finished sanding and staining and all that jazz. Ohhhh, what a learning process. But that can’t be bad. In such projects, it’s nice to know what you’ve done wrong, though it would be even better know beforehand that the outcome isn’t going to work!!!!

Here is the latest… I don’t know what wood the tabletop is made out of. Since we went to numerous hardware stores in search the proper size legs, we jumped on the prospect of the lumber store cutting some thicker oak boards down to the 2″ x 2″ size needed. It turns out the tabletop must not be oak because the hue is a slightly different from that of the legs. You can see that in the photo below, but it’s still similar, and the wood grain is really nice looking… so we’re quite okay with the end result.

As a final note, the placement of the legs has also changed. Originally they were about 6″ from either end of the table and also set a few inches inward from the front and back edges. To accommodate extra chairs, the legs are now at each corner of the table, making it all a little more spacious.


New Dining Table Legs


So there it is, another project in the books. If you have any questions about the conversion, I will be glad to help out. Also, if you enjoyed this article, please consider sharing it below!

Sometimes it seems like I have an insatiable curiosity. I have a lot of interests and read about things that sometimes make people ask “Why do you know that?” So when I recently saw a home-brewing beer kit for sale, it was another thing that piqued my curiosity. I had to have it. I had to learn what it takes and how the process works… and if I could follow directions without screwing it up. (It seems to be going well so far, by the way.)

The kit really simplifies the process, which is really great for starting out. It’s called Mr. Beer, which sounds dumb, as straight-to-the-point as it is. I don’t know if it’s always the case, but the whole Premium Gold Edition shebang was a mere $24 at JC Penny. When I got it home, I compared prices on Amazon and Walmart, and the same kit was selling in the neighborhood of $45 to $53 or so on those sites. Good deal here.

Mr. Beer Home Brew Kit

Included items in this edition of the kit are a 2 gallon fermenting tank, eight plastic 1-liter bottles, two cans of malt extract, brewing yeast, sanitizing cleaner, and just about everything else you need to make your own batch. “Just about everything else” means you needs to supply your own measuring spoons, whisk, can opener and bowl to sanitize those tools in.

The directions are simple, and this is a quick breakdown of the process:

step 1 – SANITIZING:
Sanitize the brewing tools with the included cleaner packet

Tools Needed for Beer Homebrewing

Prepping the brewing tools to be sanitized

step 2 – BREWING:
Boil water and the included booster in a pot… mix in the can of hopped malt extract… this mix is called “wort”…

Creating the Beer Wort

The wort (next to some delicious fried rice)

…. pour the wort into the keg… add water… stir vigorously, mix in yeast, and cap the keg. Store out of sunlight for 7-14 days.

Adding Yeast to the Beer Fermentation Tank

Adding yeast to the fermentation tank

step 3 – BOTTLING:
Bottle it up, gently mix in a designated amount of sugar, and store for another 7-14 days

Bottles of Home Brewed Beer Ready for Storage

All bottled up and ready for storage

Today, July 15th, is the big day. The bottled beer has been stored away for two weeks now. It’s my understanding that the first batch is always a bust, as the equipment needs broken in and such, but that’s going to be our little secret… I’m not going to be telling that to the other people trying the beer today. Cheers!

July 17 – update – The beer wasn’t so great. I’m drinking it anyway. After all, it’s beer! The first batch has a lot of head when poured. It looks nice, but the flavor tastes flat. It also has some flavor that sort of reminds me of, well, plastic. Imagine that… it’s been in brand new plastic for a couple weeks. I rinsed everything thoroughly before brewing, but I guess that doesn’t matter.

Despite the outcome, it’s still not the worst beer I have ever had, by any means. The one time I had Mickey’s, it was like an instant hangover. Seriously, I was sipping it, and had a headache within a half-hour. You know how bad a cheap beer tastes when it’s warm? Well that’s how Mickey’s tasted when it was cold.

Back to fun stuff… While on the topic of beer, I might as well plug my favorites, so you – all eleven loyal readers – know what to get me on my next birthday. In no particular order, the top 3 are: Kentucky Bourbon Ale, Well’s Banana Bread beer, and Samuel Adams Cherry Wheat.

That’s it for now! I’m looking forward to brewing the next batch of beer at home, which I’m 97% sure is going to taste like liquid gold compared to the first batch. Again, I love saying it when I really mean it: cheers!

One of my relatives gave me this big, beautiful behemoth of an armoire about a year back. I had never really used it for its intended purpose and stored a bunch of random junk in it, rather than a nice, large TV. While sitting around twiddling my thumbs last week, I had an epiphany (thanks for the time to think, unemployment!). Furniture has slowly been accumulating in my apartment, and this place sure isn’t getting any bigger. I realized there there are some opportunities to consolidate around here, and it seemed like a really cool idea would be to make a wine rack in the bottom half of that big armoire. Then we could at least get rid of the wine cabinet already in here.

The armoire


Setting the wheels in motion, my lady and I sat down to make a lot more decisions than I had initially anticipated. “Do we make the storage more vertical or horizontal? How many bottles would fit each way? Do we set the shelves at a slight angle so the wine keeps the corks moist? How many rows do we need for the stemware?” You get the idea. And then there was the math. Man, was the math hard. We argued about dimensions, and I won, although that’s not usually the case… especially when it comes to math.

After heading to the hardware store, we borrowed a table saw, and we were able to make a pretty crude Torsion box. That style is basically interconnected pieces of vertical and horizontal wood that come together to create a grid. And the cool thing is that it doesn’t require any nails or adhesive to hold the basic pattern together. Nails are only needed when you’re creating a frame around the box. And that’s a pretty good idea in this case so some of the wine bottles don’t just roll right off.

Torsion Box Being Built


Unfortunately, I went a little overboard with the table saw and cut more slots on two of the Torsion board pieces than needed. Those two pieces should have been intended to be the outside/frame. By that time we had given the table saw back, so I hand sawed some spare wood to fix my mistake. That took FOREVER! Next time I will try to not be so giddy about using power tools.

Torsion Box / Wine Storage Assembly

This shows the extra cuts I shouldn’t have made…


Some of the shelves fit together a little too tight, so I busted out the handy-dandy Dremel and sanded down the gaps we had cut in the boards. It was getting to be about midnight at that point, so I did that work in the kitchen, since it’s the room furthest away from the wall we share with the neighbor. Using a low rotation speed for sanding still kicked quite a bit of sawdust around. Next time I will just sand wherever I please. After all, such consideration for noise around here isn’t mutual, by any means.

Routing a Torsion Box with a Dremel


Once the shelves fit together better, the preliminary assembly was looking pretty good:

Wine Storage Built into an Armoire


It was then time to take the shelves apart (yet again!) and stain everything to match the armoire. Like the math earlier, another source of contention between my lady and I was the color of the stain. I ended up being wrong this time, though, as the “espresso” color she picked ended up being almost a dead-on match with the armoire.

Wine Storage Grid Nearing Completion

Still waiting on the stain to fully dry…


The whole staining process took an entire day, as I used two full coats. During that process, I also built and stained what was to become two rows for hanging stemware. Just like everything else, this process consisted of a lot of trial and error. I screwed the stemware racks to the middle of the shelf, only to then discover that the base for champagne flutes is a lot smaller than it is for wine glasses. At this point, the champagne glasses could just slip right through the cracks, so I had to disassemble the stemware racks and recalculate the distance between them.

Completed Wine Cabinet Built into an Armoire


Breaking down the process into a short(ish) synopsis seems kinda like Noah building the ark, then you read a few more sentences and 40 days have passed. Never having built anything like this, it was a fun experiment that really worked out great. The only unfortunate thing about this design is that the single wine rack holds three fewer bottles than the old wine rack. We knew that when designing the new one, but we are going to be building shelving for the right half of the armoire soon…. that won’t be so bad going from the single, old wine rack that holds 18 bottles to building storage for 30 bottles! It’s time to clear out some space… anyone need our old wine rack???

The old wine cabinet… any takers?

6/17/2014 update – the old cabinet is no longer available!

Before you begin, be sure to unplug all cables going to the hard drive and to discharge all potential static built up on you/your clothing by touching a grounded, metal object that is not the hard drive…. seems like simple stuff, but it’s really important.

The drive – this set of instructions applies to any of the LaCie Rugged series drive:

Disassembly of a LaCie Rugged External Hard Drive


Remove the rubber bumper.

Disassembly of a LaCie Rugged External Hard Drive


With care, pry the overlapping aluminum tabs on the side of the drive up to about a 45 degree angle. These tabs are fragile – four of them broke off in this disassembly process – so only pry them up far enough to clear the underlying tab. Warning! Warning! Warning! Breaking the sticker will void your warranty (if you still have one).

Disassembly of a LaCie Rugged External Hard Drive


Again, the tabs need not be pried as far apart as shown.


At this point, the top and bottom of the case will come right off.

Disassembly of a LaCie Rugged External Hard Drive


The plastic around the drive is very flexible, so pull the sides far enough apart and the drive will swing out.

Disassembly of a LaCie Rugged External Hard Drive


The small, black rubber bumpers that act as a shock mount for the drive may come off… if so, no big deal, as they slide right back on when you are ready to reassemble the drive in the case.

Disassembly of a LaCie Rugged External Hard Drive

This drive uses an IDE connection:

Lacie Rugged Hard Drive Teardown


Lacie Hard Drive Repair


The tabs broken off from prying them further than needed… If the same happens to you during disassembly, bend the rest of the tabs back into place when ready, and the outer bumper should hold everything in place just fine.

Disassembly of a LaCie Rugged External Hard Drive

If you enjoyed this article, please consider sharing it below!

Also, see my LaCie Porsche External Hard Drive Disassembly post here.